Memories of Tip-Toe Lane: A vibrant piece of Accra’s history
Growing up at No. 11 Hearts Street, a short walk from Tip-Toe Lane in Kokomlemle, Accra, I experienced the pulse of this bustling corridor in the late 1980s and 1990s—a thoroughfare that connected people, cultures, and stories.
Tip-Toe Lane was more than just a street; it was a critical part of Kokomlemle’s vibrant artery stretching from the iconic Kwame Nkrumah Circle, through landmarks like the Caprice Hotel and Panama cluster of schools, before looping back to Circle. It kept Kokomlemle alive, day and night day and night, embodying both love and despair, and hustle and bustle of its residence and patrons in its 24- hour economy attracting travellers from across Ghana, within Africa and beyond. For many, Tip-Toe Lane was the place where any travel need could be met within hours, from passport consultations to securing a ticket for a dream journey.
Kokomlemle’s allure lay in its central location. Unlike other parts of Accra that required multiple stops to reach, Kokomlemle offered direct routes, attracting travellers from across Ghana, Africa, and beyond. Tip-Toe Lane became renowned for travel-related consultations, even for mysteriously resurfaced passports—a reputation that made it a hub for wanderers and a cultural melting pot.
The street thrived on its lively industry; but it was more than business. Tip-Toe Lane was an experience that demanded a person’s firm steps for him to be able to sensor choruses of the different languages and smell the aromas from street food vendors.
It was both such a feast and test any person’s senses. Live bands, night markets, and a busy nightlife drew in locals and tourists alike. Known for its bars, clubs, and restaurants, the street was an earlier equivalent of today’s Oxford Street in Osu, filled with vibrant places like Check-Check, Scotch Bar, Rose of Sharon, and Golden Door Bar. Eateries like Kenkey House, Odorice, and Ebony Restaurant competed with modern-day favorites, offering some of Accra’s best local dishes. The booming music became a beloved backdrop, blaring through the night and bringing the community together.
Among the memorable figures of Kokomlemle’s golden days was Salifu Amankwa, a retired military officer who kept order, ensured safety, and maintained cleanliness although he sometimes employed both crudity and cruelty in his operations that became talk of the town. Local bands played at places like Lido and Tip-Toe Gardens, drawing crowds eager for music and flavour-rich dishes, with (Tsofi) Turkey tails, fried yam, local rice, and fried pork as local staples.
By 3 p.m., the area was in full swing, often busy until dawn. This energy grew even more intense on weekends when both locals and visiting foreigners, especially from neighbouring countries, shared in the street’s unique vibrancy that contributed to making it a tourist attraction to behold.
Yet the rise of technology, specifically mobile phones, marked the end of an era. As biometric systems advanced, the informal passport trade that once defined Tip-Toe Lane faded. The “Borgers” who controlled the travel business as consultants saw their influence dwindle.
Within a short time, the focus shifted entirely to other things with mobile phones and accessories taking over and spreading like wild fire. The influx of traders transformed Tip-Toe Lane into Ghana’s primary destination for mobile technology, drawing both foreign nationals and Ghanaians alike.
Today, the vibrant Tip-Toe Lane of the past has become a cluttered commercial hub lined with container shops, many of which now disrupts both domestic activities in the area as choked drains behind the Nkrumah Gardens strive to flow into the Odo Lagoon.
Overrun with container shops and glass display-showcase for selling phones and accessories, the area struggles with cleanliness and safety, especially after dark. Once-safe gathering places have become hangouts for questionable characters, making night time strolls risky for pedestrians.
Despite these changes, Tip-Toe Lane remains significant, now as the top destination for mobile phones and accessories. Still, a coordinated effort from city authorities is needed to restore Kokomlemle to its former glory. Clearing container shops, blocking drains and pedestrian paths, enforcing cleanliness, and enhancing safety could transform the area back into the lively, welcoming place that it once was.
Nothing lasts forever; but I wish the good memories of Kokomlemle could be spared and live long on record so that the authorities can benefit from its experiences to guide them in their development plans for the area.
BY FIIFI NETTEY
